Hello and welcome to this week’s edition of the mrlukeniktravels blog, coming from Hue, Vietnam. I have spent the last week in central Vietnam exploring some of the history and architecture of this country. It certainly has been interesting. I have also had the opportunity to get back on two wheels again which was especially enjoyable. As I have moved northwards the weather seems to have improved. Fewer rainy days and cool breezes increasingly help improve my experiences. As I write the street below bustles with motorbikes (this is Vietnam after all) and the flags on the hotel across the road flutter in the breeze. Here’s some of what I have been up to over the past week.
Last week I travelled up from the mountains of Da Lat to Hoi An via overnight bus. I arrived, somewhat rested, at 6:30am in Hoi An. The city is famous for it’s Old Town and tailoring shops. There are approximately 400 tailors in the town selling an infinite number of designs, fabrics and combinations. I was not on the lookout for a bespoke piece, but plenty of people I met there were. The Old Town is dominated by the Chinese community reaching back over the centuries. I spent a day taking in some of the temples, meeting houses and warehouses within the Old Town. There was certainly plenty to see! I also managed to see a performance that showcased local music and dancing. It was a real cultural experience to see the different dances and musical instruments used. That day was especially hot and sunny, a welcome change to the wet days in Da Lat. Being able to get some shade in buildings was a nice respite.
The next day I spent at the Marble Mountains which are plugs of ancient volcanoes. The five peaks are dedicated to the five elements, a central theme in non-Buddhist religion. Navigating the slippery, uneven steps in the rain was quite a challenge. Water Mountain was a series of connected natural caves which were originally fully enclosed. Bombing by the USAF in the American War means now there are holes in the roofs letting in daylight and rainwater. The complex of temples, shrines and pagodas display a mixture of Buddhist, Confucian and animist beliefs. Today in Vietnam approximately 70% of the population is atheist. The intricacy of the carving in wood and stone was very beautiful. I enjoyed being able to explore the area and the mixing of cultures and religions.
Finishing up my time in Hoi An, it was time to move on. Travelling to my next stop involved not a bus but two wheels. I hired a one way rental motorbike and rode from Hoi An over the Hai Van Pass to Hue. A little Suzuki 110cc carried me nicely for the trip. It was nice to be back on a motorbike after a break of over a year. Being a motorcyclist back in the UK meant I had a bit of a head start over the average bike riding foreigner in Vietnam. I did see a few others wobbling about which is a risky thing to do on these roads! The trip was about 130km so not too long with plenty of stopping to take pictures. The roads were nice and smooth with good grip so I really enjoyed the pass, made famous by an episode of UK Topgear. I almost regretted having to stop to take pictures given how much I was enjoying myself. After a few stops for more sightseeing on the trip I had arrived in Hue, halfway between Saigon and Hanoi.
Continuing the theme of history Hue was the seat of the last dynasty of Vietnamese emperors, ending in 1945. The historic citadel has become famous for the battles fought there during the Independence War and American War. Bombing and artillery strikes by French colonial forces and later US troops have reduced most of the citadel to grassy mounds. Parts of complex have been reconstructed but there is much still to go. Once home to the emperor, his family, concubines, eunuchs the site was very impressive. I found it a little difficult to imagine what a busy place it would have been before war came along. Wandering around the open spaces which were once enclosed, paved and bustling with activity was a strange feeling.
My second day in Hue involved getting back on two wheels again to explore some of the surrounding countryside. Being a former royal capital, Hue is surrounded by mausoleums of Nguyen emperors. Most of impressive of these is Khai Dinh, the last emperor to build a mausoleum. I found it a mixture of Western and Eastern design and finishing, Versailles meets South East Asia. This mausoleum was incredibly expensive and symbolised, at the time, the gap between the emperor and the average citizen. The life-size bronze cast covered in gold leaf seemed rather unnecessary or over-the-top in my opinion. I also visited a disused water-park which was a slightly spooky experience. Abandoned in the early 2000’s the rides, albeit in a vandalised and dilapidated state, remain. The park did have a post-apocalyptic feel to it. I did not, however, fancy a swim in one of the pools!
That is almost it for this week’s blog. Next week I shall be in the north at last and making the most of my two weeks remaining in Vietnam. As always, for updates of my whereabouts on the go, I have a Twitter feed which can be found with the handle @mrlukeniktravel. For photos and stories,, I have an Instagram page which has the handle @mrlukeniktravels. Thirdly, you can subscribe to this blog using the button below to receive an email each time I post- simple! Lastly, form now until next times, stay safe and travel on!
